The forgotten crag: everyone’s crag
Once upon a time, but more accurately in the late 80s, a time when climbing as a sport was gaining momentum, one could find near a small village squeezed between the Brenta Dolomites on one side, and the river Sarca Valley on the other, a crag that possessed the characteristics of being both beautiful and pleasurable to climb, which made it stand out among its kind.
Climbers clad in lycra tights of preposterous colors used to swarm upon this shield of rock jutting out of a field, crossed by a gentle stream of mountain water, and their numbers were steadily rising, also thanks to the publicity provided by the first official guide to the Arco area, which of course featured this little angle of paradise.
But alas, on a sad day in the early 90s, the owner of this piece of land, tired of the sight of these weird looking beings who slept in vans and frolicked on his beautiful field, maybe believing them to be untrustworthy individuals, decided to close off access and for good measure had all the nails pulled from the rock.
On that day, the legend of the crag was born, and the climbers of the “old generation” reminisce to this day about it, remembering its beauty, the view above the Sarca river gorges, the sunkissed meadows below it, and talk with nostalgia about its very rock and its quasi-magical atmosphere.
DolomitiOpen, an amateur sport association, is campaigning to reopen access to the crag, and give it back to the climbers, as we believe that such a beautiful and history rich place should not be owned by one individual, but instead belong to the community.
We want this crag to be “everyone’s crag” again, and this is why everyone’s contribution is fundamental!
How funds will be used
DolomitiOpen plans to buy from the current owner about 1000 sq meters of land, including the cliff and the meadows directly below it.
DolomitiOpen will also take care of re-nailing the climbs and restore the area
The first 10 itineraries will be re-nailed
After the initial goal is reached, will correspond the re-opening of an additional pitch, for a total of about 40 or so, tracing the old nails.
What is DolomitiOpen?
The projects we promoted so far are:
How can you support the project The Forgotten crag?
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Project created by
My name is Simone Elmi, and I work as a Mountain Guide in the Dolmites, next to the Sarca river Valley.
I had the privilege of climbing on this Crag in the early 90s, before it was closed to the public, and the nails pulled from the rock.
It was a magic location, with a one-of-a-kind rock, and thanks to this project it will be possible to do it again.
30 years spent rock-climbing, and 15 as aMountaiun Guide
Numerous nailed crags, more than 150 pitches nailed make me sure of the beauty and peculiarity of the “Falesia dimenticata”, a unique place with a unique history, where the icons of the 80s used to climb, and where hopefully the newer generations will have the opportunity to do so.